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The Pastiche method of skin analysis


The Pastiche Method of Skin Analysis is a progressive and effective technique to accurately determine basic majority skin types, risk factors and priority skin conditions.


It is a progressive and rigorous technique employed by a growing number of clinical estheticians, skin treatment practitioners and medical professionals seeking to provide more effective and competent services to their clients and patients.
The core of the method of Advanced Skin Analysis (ASA) focuses on determining the leading causes of skin conditions experienced in order for more appropriately targeted and considered interventions to be prescribed. This is in contrast to the more simplistic approach of treating the symptoms of the conditions rather than addressing their causes that is popularly employed by individuals with limited knowledge and experience.


The principles of the Pastiche Method demonstrate:

►  The value of linking skin structure and function to skin conditions

►  The importance of determining primary and secondary causes of prevailing skin conditions

►  How the "cascade" effect manifests itself as a number of related skin conditions

►   The importance of determining various triggers and contributing factors of the conditions

►  Why the prioritisation of condition treatment order provides maximum remedial results

The method combines a rigorous consultation procedure and a detailed surface examination, followed by measurements of a number of parameters of the skin.
The consultation procedure features over 60 questions that build a profile of intrinsic and extrinsic factors, pre-dispositions, triggers and contributing factors that affect skin health and condition. Following the consultation, a physical examination of the texture of the skin is conducted with a either a magnifying lamp or a high resolution microscopic camera.
A series of measurements are conducted to determine risk factors and establish a base line for treatment strategies. High accuracy, repeatable measurements using a Corneometer, (to measure hydration levels) a Sebumeter, (to measure lipid levels) and a Mexameter (to measure melanin density and vascularity) are employed.
The information from the consultation along with the data from examination and measurements can be distilled via a logic pathway that provides indicators to the primary and secondary causes of the skin conditions. These are commonly a combination of extrinsic factors reacting with intrinsic factors and pre-dispositions.

The optional use of a narrow-band black light (UVA 360nm) device (such as the Observ®) is often also used to identify the quality of sebaceous secretions and pigmentation damage not visible under normal lighting conditions.

This specific method was developed by New Zealand born dermal scientist and skin treatment practitioner Florence Barrett-Hill in 1993. The technique was first presented as a postgraduate educational seminar in 1994. Over subsequent years with collaboration with other skin treatment practitioners and access to case histories across the globe, the method was refined to a point where it could be presented a dissertation.
The material was distilled to produce the textbook titled Advanced Skin Analysis (ISBN 978-0-476-00665-2) written by Ms Barrett-Hill and published in 2004. The book was an instant success, with translations in to Japanese, French, German, Spanish and more recently, Russian. The books are the foundation of many successful professional skin treatment therapy (particularly Corneotherapy) practices worldwide.